• Italy & London 2016 Autumn Report

    JANUARY IS THE BEST TIME FOR FASHION IN EUROPE AS EVERYONE IS WEARING AUTUMN WINTER FASHION AND ALL MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS ARE BEING SHOWN AT PITTI FLORENCE AND THE LONDON COLLECTION.

    The new collection of suits and jacket are selling amazingly well, so get in quickly as sizes are limited. Colour is everywhere and this has always been our strong suit. Men of all ages, shapes and sizes are embracing it. Trousers are thankfully fuller and pleats are emerging, as is always the case when trouser styles change back to comfort.

    Over the last five years, there has been nothing worse than seeing grown men bulging out of ill-fitted trousers, barely covered by tight short jackets. If you care to compare the last two James Bond films, you will see that even Daniel Craig looks uncomfortable in his ‘fitted’ outfits. Of particular note is Double-Breasted jackets. After five years of every tailored fashion house pushing them hard, the battle has been lost (Note# It was pushed at a time when global sales of formal clothing were slumping and Italian houses all decided, in unison, to try to stimulate demand).

    You see virtually no-one in London or Italy wearing them in either suits, jackets or overcoats. We have not dealt with any double-breasted suits for many years but as our policy is always to be contrarian to the market, thus keeping a fresh look, we will feature five beautiful Italian fabrics in very limited numbers for our most discerning clients.

    Accessories, scarfs, ties, bracers, and interesting belts are essentials in topping-off the layered look. Shoes are getting stronger than ever before as the ‘must-have’ wardrobe essential. It’s a big call but I would say that men are spending as much on  shoes as the jacket or suit, something we are as yet to see in Australia). Lace up boots with broguing and tweed panels as well as the essential monk shoe in any and every colour other than black!

    The new collection of Barker shoes is stunning and will be in store for this Winter.

    After Pitti, your team drove (yes drove), at high speed to Biella in the foothills of the Alps in less than three hours, beating the trains by a sizeable margin. After many years of decline in this beautiful region things look to be getting a little better. All the weak and boring Mills have closed and the ones left are striving to move forward by looking back at their archives, reinterpreting some stunning designs from yesteryear. We have purchased many interesting fabrics for winter. Of particular interest is the emergence of Donegal type fabrics with a lighter softer handle and a less rugged hand-loomed look, they are a stunner and we have purchased three for our upcoming collections.

    In my next report, out next week, I will preview the Winter Collection. The two photos in Biella feature our own fabric being woven at one of our secret mills that is exclusive to us. The other is of Via Italia, the historic main street in Biella.

    Lastly the hot tip is jackets, for they are getting stronger. We are seeing incredibly strong sales reflecting what is happening worldwide. So remember to come in and see our new collections and if we haven’t got it in stock, our tailors will make it!

    No other firm in Australia has a stronger team of ‘real’ tailors in house.

    I must thank the beautiful and talented cinematographer Brigitte Tolley for the new product shots featured above.

    Cheers from Mayfair,

    Tolley

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